Be An Earth Mother and Goddess
Your desire in your dressing is to embrace and bring the entire world into you. You have a unique challenge among the body shapes. That is to bring yourself out into the world rather than bringing the world into you and losing yourself caring for the world.
Your hips and bust are smaller than your waist. It doesn’t have to be by much. Your shoulders and hips no longer stand out. What does stand out is your desire to take the focus off of you and onto the rest of the world and what better image do we have of that than the mother in a long billowing robe embracing all the children. Your challenge is to care for and enhance yourself and to come out into the world.
Accentuate the Vertical
The way to do that? Create visual lines that breakup your figure and bring action and curves into your silhouette.
Rule of Thirds
One very successful design methodology to do just that is the rule of thirds. Vertically divide your figures into thirds. A loose fitting jacket that is open all the way up to your neck does that. Wearing a different, brighter color beneath that jacket creates that rule of thirds with the jacket defining the outer 2 thirds and the brighter color creating the inner third. Wearing shawls over your arms but not across your front will again divide your figures into thirds. This division brings action to your silhouette.
This rule of thirds will only work if your arms are covered. They are the outer part of the outer thirds of your figure and if they are bare then it becomes the rule of fifths and that just creates confusion.
Tailored v neck jackets worn open are another garment that follows that rule of thirds. Another good one would be the straight duster coat worn open down the front. Employ the rules of thirds horizontally here and hem it just below your knees at midcalf and attach a beautiful pin out on your shoulders. Or, even better, find a duster with some yoke action that draws the eyes out to the shoulders.
Double breasted tops and puffy jackets defeat that rule of thirds. So do horizontal seams and trims and bulky pockets.
To add to the curves look for ways to elongate your neck and face. Using a bright color on the inner third and having that color go up to your face will elongate. So will beautiful long necklaces. Wearing high necklines and scarves wrapped around your shoulders and neck will do the opposite so stay away from them.
There is no specific hemline that is good or bad for you just be sure to add to the curves when selecting the place on your leg to hem to. Have the hem fall at a place on your leg where the outline of your leg is going in. That can be at the ankle, right below the knee, or even right about the knee.
Skim Rather Than Hide!
While you want to enhance your curves, you don’t want to do so by making your clothes tight on your body. Those are the wrong kinds of curves. Tops and shirts should skim your body. On the other hand, don’t hide in big oversized shirts and skirts. They only hide you and keep you away from the world. Remember your challenge is to come into the world.
You want your sleeves to participate in that rule of thirds so keep them softly draped or tailored. Batwings lose the sleeves into a larger proportion as do ruffles on the sleeves.
Now – let’s go shopping!